5 Flatiron Scramble Classics

 Looming above Boulder, Colorado lies one of the best alpine training grounds the intermountain west has to offer. Seeing as the secret’s already out, and some of the best climbers in the country call Boulder home, I figured I’d throw in my 2 cents. Here goes my top 5 favorite Flatiron scrambles I've done so far. They are as follows:

1. Second Flatiron via/Dodge Block (5.0 II)

2. Second Flatiron via/Freeway (4th II)

3. The Regency via/El Camino Royale (5.2 II)

4. The Amoeboid via/Buckets (5.0)

5. Der Zerkle via/Sunnyside Two (4th)-West Face (5.0)

Honorable Mentions: Nebel Horn Via (5.0 II), Anomaly via/E Face (5.0), and Royal Arch via/E Face (5.0 II)

1. Dodge Block (5.0 II) Second Flatiron

This one took the cake as my favorite scramble so far for three key reasons. First is the length. Nothing beats going the full stretch of one of the significant Flatiron formations. For being able to get this route done in less than a couple hours it really makes you feel like you’re climbing something much bigger. For me, the length also includes the approach. I did all of the 5 scrambles mentioned during larger trail runs, but if not meaning to do any extra distance, the approach to the base of the Second Flatiron is nearly perfect. Just enough vert and mileage to warm up and cool down. Altogether if just approaching the Second Flatiron, the total approach and return is around 3 miles and 1000’ of gain total. Those figures do not include the 1000’+ of climbing on the route itself, but rather add to the appeal for the non-runner types.

Secondly, the scrambling on route. While no move during the duration of the route goes at anything harder than “hard 4th class” or 5.0 or so, the sustained nature of the scrambling combined with the positions that one will find themselves in mid-route really tie everything together. Not only will one find themselves in a sea of Flatiron patina towards the middle of the route, but the crux “dodge block” section of the line is fantastic. For the experienced climber (or the Flatiron initiated) nothing during the route is hard enough to merit the use of climbing shoes, but the airy nature of the scrambling combined with the feeling of being a dot in the middle of the void really helps to keep one satisfied with their work when they’re done.

Lastly, the “cream on the cake” for this scramble is the ability to link it up to other surrounding 3 and 4 star routes. Like most of the scrambles on the Second Flatiron, this route ends with a walk-off. From that walk-off you’re in position to run back down to the base of the First Flatiron for more climbing, or select one of the many satellite formations surrounding for some extra fun. The positioning that you gain by the approach and descent trails can really set you up for as short or as long of a day in the hills as you so please. Due to everything else mentioned, this scramble gains top honors from me as my favorite so far.

Descent: Scramble northwest (2nd-3rd) to the First-Second Flatiron Summit Trail.

2. Freeway (4th II) Second Flatiron

Honestly, if this route didn’t make the top 5, it would be pretty disrespectful. As the token “easy scramble” of the Flatirons, I would be hard pressed to argue against that title. While many consider this the easiest and most “beginner friendly” of the Flatirons, I would have to disagree. There are more than enough shorter and easier options for those wanting to dip their toes without significant risk. I have encountered more than enough scramblers at the bottom of this route who have either backed off after the first couple moves, or are intimidated by the length up close.

The line that Freeway takes begins with a few tricky, but relatively easy moves over a large hump and proceeds up the gut of the east face of the Second Flatiron utilizing great foot placements, sizable jugs, and more than enough large pockets to provide ample rests should one need them. I’ve gone up this route more than I can count on two hands, and it still remains engaging and enjoyable no matter how easy the moves may be. I have high regard for the tastes of anyone who considers this a 4-star line, as that is exactly what it is.

Coming off of the aforementioned reasons why I loved Dodge Block so much, the same can be said of Freeway. Albeit it's easier grade, this route remains to still be slightly committing, as you are still climbing up to 1200’ of low-grade technical rock. The bail-out locations, while plenty, are not always available, and it does require a good sense of scrambling skill to keep one’s mind right in the short “crux” sections. All that combined with the semi-exposed nature of the positions that one is able to find themselves in, and the near-perfect view of Boulder below, Freeway cannot be forgotten in my top 5 flatiron scramble routes so far.

Descent: Do a short boulder problem Storm Drain (V0) to descend back to the First-Second Flatiron Summit Trail. Other escape options exist.

3. The Regency via/El Camino Royale (5.2 II)

I should note that the grade regarded here is not always the same grade that you will find everywhere else. Even in the most recent addition of “Climbing Boulder’s Flatirons” (2nd Ed) by Jason Haas, this route is regarded as “class 4.” I would have to disagree. The nature of the route does not lend itself to being sustained, but there are individual and committing moves here and there that I believe would warrant the low 5th class rating.

All that being said, the El Camino Royale line up to the summit of the Regency is utterly fantastic. Despite the slightly “harder” moves here and there, I did this scramble in trail running shoes and believe that it is more than doable for others in the same fashion. Great holds with awesome liebacking will bring you to engaging face scrambling up to the summit. Not to mention the fact that the start of any route on the Regency is farther off the beaten path and escapes many of the random passersby that other formations within the Flatirons have the tendencies to attract. Do be aware that this route is popular and noted in the Simon Testa guidebook of “The Best Flatiron Scrambles.” I believe that the start and choke-points of the route could become crowded on the weekends.

Beyond the intricacies of the climbing on-route, the position that topping out on the Regency places one in is fantastic for continuing onto a mega day. From the summit of the Regency, one is able to easily continue onto the East Face of the Royal Arch, from which they are easily able to either descend the famously busy Royal Arch trail, or continue north onto the Amoeboid or the Anomaly, each having great scrambles up their east faces. The Buckets line on the Amoeboid being one that I will cover shortly later. All in all, I would consider El Camino Royale to be an essential tick on any serious or casual Flatiron Scrambler’s list.

Descent: Scramble (2nd-3rd class) northwest and meet with a social climber’s trail which will eventually lead down to the Royal Arch Trail.

4. The Amoeboid via/Buckets (5.0)

As the name implies, this route climbs large “bucket” huecos from nearly base to summit of the Amoeboid Flatiron. If this were slightly steeper and bolted, it would be 4 or 5 star. Lucky for the scramblers of the Front Range, it’s not and is still 4 or 5 stars. From the Royal Arch (accessed either by scrambling the Royal Arch and Regency or the Royal Arch Trail) head north through slightly “bushwacky” terrain. As referenced above, this route is usually combined with other routes, the Anomaly being the most popular link-up as it is the easiest way to get to the base of the Amoeboid. Climb the Anomaly or bypass it to the north. From there, one will find themselves staring up at something even the most imaginative climber couldn’t conjure in their wildest dreams. A line of perfect jugs, begging for climbing.

Unfortunately, the buckets go for only about 200-300’ or so, finishing on a tricky 4th class slab section before pooping out scramblers from the middle of a large cleft at the top of the formation. From there, it is an easy bushwack back down to the established trails on a social climber’s trail who’s quality depends on the amount of rain that Boulder has received that week.

This scramble is fun, secluded, and utterly classic. Do it, enjoy it, and try not to go up it on a Saturday or Sunday morning. This climb, along with the previous three, are featured in both Simon Testa’s pocket guide, and within the recommended routes of Haas’s definitive guide.

Descent: Walk off to the north. Bushwack east to main trails. Aim for meeting back up with the Royal Arch Trail for the most straight-forward way down.

5. Der Zerkle via/Sunnyside Two (4th)-West Face (5.0)

Before getting into the meat of the route, it should be noted that Sunnyside Two is not usually subject to seasonal raptor nesting closures, while the West Face usually is. Keep that in mind when planning to go up both or either of these routes.

Competing for the “easiest scramble” title with Freeway, there’s not much to complain about if at all in regards to Sunnyside Two. The movement is easy and the climbing is not hard to read. Jugs are plentiful, and the route is honestly pretty short. All that being said, I still couldn’t help smiling going up it. Something about the simplicity of the movement demanded made this the perfect route to tack onto a longer day including Bear Peak and the Nebel Horn among other formations in the area. The sunny nature of the route (as it’s name implies) lends the line to being pretty clear of significant lichen and pine needle buildup. A well appreciated thing if you’ve gone up the Anomaly anytime soon. The only thing honestly that detracts from the route is the fact that it does not summit the formation. That is where the West Face comes in.

As mentioned, both the West Face and Sunnyside Two remain to be both pretty short in length from what is normally expected within the Flatirons, but when combined they create what I consider to be a great jaunt to the top of a significant feature. The West Face begins slightly around the corner and within a large chimney from where Sunnyside Two ends. It ascends giant huecos with easy movement, to where it shortly departs to the top of Der Zerkle. As the entirety of the West Face remains pretty steep and near-vertical, the exposure really isn’t felt as the entire route remains within a nice chimney system. While going up it for the first time, I worried that I should have booted up for this one, but was pleasantly surprised as even though the route climbs vertical, it is still easily done in a pair of good-fitting trail runners.

Descent: Downclimb West Face and walk off to the northwest. Trails are easily found to the north and east.

Closing Notes

While most of these routes merit a technical class 4 or 5 climbing grade, they are considered “scrambles” due to the nature of how they are best ascended. As I always tell those uncomfortable with soloing to use a rope, that may not always be possible on some of these lines. For example, on Freeway, Buckets, and Sunnyside Two, there are almost no opportunities for protection, and if any for a proper and safe belay. Do keep that in mind if considering to rope up for these scrambles. The best protection for these routes is a good pair of shoes (if you're using your arms too much you’re not climbing the routes right), a good mental outlook, and knowing exactly where each route goes. Each formation mentioned other than Der Zerkle has a walk-off descent and does not feature any sort of intensive downclimbing or complicated way of escaping the summit.

Be safe, be fast, and enjoy!

*ALL WRITING AND PHOTOGRAPHY PROPERTY OF TRENT HILLIER AND SAWATCH COWPOKE*