Afternoon Hang: BoCan's Tonnere Tower

 


Tourists meandering to Boulder Falls beyond us seemed to move with a distinct lack of purpose. Sarah yelling for slack cut me away from the dull overwhelming lull of noise emanating from Boulder Creek below. For a second I was almost relaxed enough to nap, even despite the slight hanging position I was sitting in at the second belay on our way up Tonnere Tower in Boulder Canyon.


We had considered climbing this jutting formation within BoCan many times before, as each time we’d whizz by on our way to Nip and Tuck, Sports Park, anywhere else, the dominating position it took above the hustle and bustle of the Boulder Falls lot cut through the normality of stopping your car simply to gander at water falling down. Each time we’d considered it though, as if guided by fate, weather moved in, or there was someone on the route we’d wished to do already.


This time was different. The summit was clear. The sky was a nice hue of deep blue in the mid-May sun. It was a Monday. There was no specific gravity to the undertaking of the route we were meaning to get on, the difficulty was well within our grade and the whole line was bolted to the top. I couldn’t put my finger on it at first-what was special about this time, but if I had to say for sure now it would be the timing. The day was my birthday, and I wanted to do nothing that day but climb. 5.10a was tame for us, but “fun” was on the menu for our feast that afternoon, and the timing of all of it was nearly perfect.


We chose a short linkup on Tonnerre that’s affectionately called “Buried Alive.” It combines the entirety of the route “Buried Treasure” (5.9) from the bottom to the middle of the formation, to where it meets on the third pitch with the final (best), crux pitch of the route “Stayin’ Alive” (5.10a). Altogether, the linkup provides a nice three-pitch tour to the top of the formation, with each pitch being long enough to make it feel like you’re actually climbing. The combination of views, aesthetic qualities of the formation itself, and the quick approach come together to make this a more than worthwhile “almost grade II” climb.


We skipped over the road barrier quickly, a few older tourists glared at us with a mixture of confusion and disdain. It’s position at the edge of the road separating the parking lot from the creek bottom for anyone too stupid not to pay attention to the turn in the highway after looking at Boulder Falls for too long while driving up to Nederland. The tyrolean across the river was fun. Just long enough to feel like we were venturing into territory only seen in “Temple of Doom.” It was a welcome juxtaposition, as all the crags around home in Buena Vista just involved hikes across scrub brush and through pinon pine, this was something to break up the monotony. The scramble from the creek to the base of the cliff after that went quickly. It reminded me that I do not like mud.


From the base of the cliff, the first two pitches of “Buried Treasure” went without any significant points of memory. The first pitch distinctly stands out to me as a little greasy, but with the spring melt just behind us at the time, and the slabby nature of a lot of the bases of formations in BoCan, I wasn’t really all that put off. It still had its share of good movement and fun climbing. More than anything else I’d say with authority in this exposee, the second pitch (last pitch of Buried Treasure) is a formality to get to the good stuff. Mildly stimulating slab moves for about 60-70 feet take you to a good, but small ledge below the business. From there, it’s nothing but unadulterated bliss. A few mid-10 moves on exposed slab take you to the most enjoyable bit of bolted corner climbing I’ve probably ever touched in BoCan. A nice little bit of grunting gets you out and over the final section of tips-y laybacking to where it’s a short jog over a little more slab to the very top. Three raps to the ground with a 70 meter rope and you’re sitting by the creek wondering how it all went by so fast.


Altogether, I’d say anyone with a mild interest at the least should get on it. It’s well-bolted, goes by much too quick, and leaves you with a smile on your face. The only way to make the day end even better is with copious amounts of Czech-German beer down in town.


*ALL WRITING AND PHOTOGRAPHY PROPERTY OF TRENT HILLIER AND SAWATCH COWPOKE*



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