3-Star Chossaneering: Wild Ridge via/El Diablo de Oro (5.8 III)

 I could feel the heat of the late-day sun, its rays giving a light burn to the tops of both of my arms. Below me fell away the rest of Wild Ridge for about 1000 feet with New York Peak beyond. Nary a cloud in the sky, the air was warm interspersed with the light breeze from the west. I couldn’t hear any of the cars below on highway 82. Some lady in Aspen was probably buying a martini for $35 about now. I couldn’t have been happier.

For as much of the Indy Pass obsessive that I was, it had never occurred to me to give Amos Whiting’s long route “El Diablo de Oro” (5.8 III) on Wild Ridge a look. Having been established in about 2014 or 2015 or so, the route certainly wasn’t grand-spanking new, but it was definitely modern compared to the Harvey Carter classics that surrounded it. I was a fan of Mr. Whiting’s work, many of his newer additions to “The Pass” were near-perfect, with great bolt placements when needed and fantastic movement for whatever grade they went at. Sarah and I had climbed Upper Pitbull Cliff at the Upper Boulderfield Area the week before where the route “Anchors Away” (5.10d) had been declared the group favorite. Mr. Whiting added a bolt or two to do away with the heinous runout at the top it once had, so I figured why not get back on something that he helped grace us with on the Pass.

With mixed protection and much of the terrain on route being pretty moderate, Sarah and I figured that an early start was not needed. Luckily, the rain that had plagued us at the beginning of the summer season was starting to go away and the afternoons were beginning to remain dry. With a relaxed departure from the car at about 1:00 PM, we made our way deliberately through the giant talus field that protected the lower escarpments of Wild Ridge. Passing by the classic test pieces of Wild Rock, I started to bubble over with excitement. Many of the longer multi-pitches that Independence Pass sported had a tendency to be wonderful. Tracing the ridge up and above with my finger, I had a feeling that this one would be no exception. We picked our way through the upper end of the loose scree and found the beginning of the route.

As I said before, the route for the most part was pretty moderate. Due to its nature though, loose rock would be somewhat of a factor on the easier sections. That being just the way of the alpine, I was not deterred, but figured with the sparse bolt placements a lighter rack with some extendable draws would be more than adequate. I was happy to find that would be the case. The beginning couple pitches went quickly, with decent gear placements abounding and bolts when needed. It was easy to keep the rope drag down with extensions on the gear, and a lot of sections were solid and straight forward enough to run out within reason. Sarah and I were climbing quickly without trying, at a couple points I felt like I was almost running.

Coming to the first “crux” section, I would have to say that “Wild Tower” just about takes the cake as the highlight of the route. Everything leading up to it is less than vertical, with this almost flying spire of a tower coming up through the last quarter of the ridge to give a good “kick in the ass” money pitch to wake you back up. Well-protected and absolutely awesome on the movement, the end of the pitch delivers you on a floating pedestal, positioning one to kill the last two or three pitches of the route quickly while providing demanding views of the Upper Roaring Fork River Valley spilling down past Aspen below. Sarah hesitantly volunteered to lead the tower pitch, climbing deliberately and flowing, uncharacteristic of her nervous gusto on the ground. It was fantastic to watch her lead into the final moves with a few “showstopper” laybacks to the final mantel to the anchors.

After moving across the small horizontal knife-edge ridge leading to the final pitch of the route, you are faced again with a short crux section. Decent hand-sized gear and laybacks deliver you to the large ledge with trees above from which you can take a moment to appreciate the entire route spilling along the ridge below. Everything being said, I would say my only criticism for the line if at all would be the long (and sometimes loose) walk down. Stick close to the ridge that you just climbed and the cairns will guide the way. Just don’t trip. A roll down to the highway off the top of the hillside I’m sure wouldn’t be that great. As Sarah and I finished our descent and chugged stashed lemonade at the car, I couldn’t help but wonder what was going to get ticked off the list next.

RECOMMENDED RACK: Doubles #0.4-1, Singles #2-3, Nuts, Long slings/alpine draws

BEST GUIDEBOOK: “The Pass: A Climber’s Guide to Independence Pass and Monitor Rock” By: Jason Brown and Mike Schneiter

*ALL WRITING AND PHOTOGRAPHY PROPERTY OF TRENT HILLIER AND SAWATCH COWPOKE*