Colorado Classic Crags: Boulder Canyon

 






Amongst almost all of the fantastic and world class areas that Colorado has to offer, few compare in the density, variety, and overall ease of access as Boulder Canyon. Though, it should be acknowledged, being a few minutes drive outside of one of the meccas of North American climbing doesn’t hurt.

As the canyon’s name suggests, Boulder Canyon sits directly west of the heart of Boulder, Colorado. Giving quick access to the towns of Nederland and Allenspark deeper in the foothills, and allowing for quick access to the Indian Peaks, Boulder Canyon has been trafficked almost as long as Colorado has had statehood. It has been the site of many great moments in climbing history. The first 5.11a to go free in Colorado (and debatably the United States) was climbed at the Castle Rock crag nestled in these hallowed walls, a “feat” performed by none other than Royal Robbins and Pat Ament, legends of the American climbing world. The cliffs and feeder canyons of this area have been explored since before the 1950’s, including a few notable ascents from the incomparable Harvey Carter. Climbable year round, Boulder Canyon competes with even the most prolific areas in what it has to offer. Here’s a short breakdown:


Lower Canyon

Many of BoCan’s most trafficked and famous climbs reside either right near the eastern mouth of the canyon or shortly after it heading west. The Dome and Elephant Buttresses lie right after one makes their way into the canyon offering up many classic and “must do” trad climbs for the area. “The Owl” (5.7+) and “Cozyhang” (5.7+) offer a great introduction (with a little sandbaggery) into the trad climbing offerings of the canyon. Some of the better traditionally-protected multi pitch climbs can be found in the vicinity. It should be noted as well that with the density of routes in the canyon, the boulders are no exception. Many worthwhile problems can be found below The Dome or near it in the Rock Island Crag area.


Middle Canyon

This sector of the canyon includes the famous (or infamous, rather) crag, Animal World. Best visited on a weekday and in the shoulder seasons, Animal World remains a great winter crag option as well. Many of the climbs here are world-class at any grade, ranging from Richard Rossiter’s mega-classic “Animation” (5.8) to the even bigger classic, “Free Willie” (5.11a). Beyond the moderate grades, “Animal Magnetism” (5.11c) and “Days of Future Passed” (5.12a) are not to be missed as well. If bolted and mixed multi pitches are your game, the Blob Rock area is not to be overlooked, offering chill outings in the 5.9/10a range, to slightly overhanging fist and finger cracks more than guaranteed to give you a run for your money.


Upper Canyon

While the fruits of BoCan closer to Nederland are harder to find good weather for in the colder months, they more than make up for it in the shoulder seasons and summer. Some of the more classic and worthwhile summer outings of the canyon are found here, whether they be at the aforementioned Castle Rock featuring the also aforementioned test piece, “Athlete’s Feat” (5.11a/b), or the enjoyable moderate trad climbs of the Nip and Tuck Crag. The infamous chipped holds of the Sport Park lie in this zone as well, though the climbs still remain to be great and engaging. For bouldering options, the Nursing Home offers some bullet-hard test pieces below the climbs including the popular problem, “Freak Brothers” (V10).



Upper Dream Canyon

No explanation of Boulder Canyon would be complete without noting the exquisite routes found within Upper Dream Canyon. While it would be possible to access this side canyon through the area near Boulder Falls, that is no longer possible and has been made illegal due to the dangerous nature of access there. There is a trail that can be used to access the canyon from that point as well legally, but it should be observed that it would include a decent hike. Many opt to access Upper Dream Canyon via Sugarloaf and Lost Angel Roads. From parking at the end of this route, many trails can be used to access the different walls found within Upper Dream Canyon. A few famous test pieces are found here, including the ever-popular, “Archangel” (5.12c), and the incomparable trad journey, “China Doll” (5.14a). For a semi-secluded area in BoCan that is wonderful in the Spring, Summer, and Fall, Upper Dream Canyon would give hard competition to be the spot.


With areas like Boulder Canyon in Colorado, many will find themselves asking, “why go anywhere else?” I would reply with a stern comment about escaping the lackluster attitude found on the Front Range, but you would be hard-pressed to find me saying anything bad about BoCan. Training for a lot of granite climbing, or just plain looking for something to crank hard on? If you’re in the area, I would look no further.

CLIMBING TYPE: Sport, Mixed, Trad, Bouldering, and some assorted Ice/Mixed Climbing

BEST GUIDEBOOK: “Boulder Canyon” By: Chris Weidner and Jason Haas (roped offerings)

“Colorado Bouldering: Front Range” By: Phillip Benningfield and Matt Samet (bouldering)

CLOSEST TOWN: Boulder, Colorado (duh)

BEST RESTAURANT: Literally anything on Pearl Street or in the immediate vicinity or choose any given Nepalese joint and thank me later.



****ALL PHOTOGRAPHS AND WRITING PROPERTY OF MOUNTAINPROJECT.COM and TRENT HILLIER****

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Afternoon Hang: BoCan's Tonnere Tower

Image
  Tourists meandering to Boulder Falls beyond us seemed to move with a distinct lack of purpose. Sarah yelling for slack cut me away from the dull overwhelming lull of noise emanating from Boulder Creek below. For a second I was almost relaxed enough to nap, even despite the slight hanging position I was sitting in at the second belay on our way up Tonnere Tower in Boulder Canyon. We had considered climbing this jutting formation within BoCan many times before, as each time we’d whizz by on our way to Nip and Tuck, Sports Park, anywhere else, the dominating position it took above the hustle and bustle of the Boulder Falls lot cut through the normality of stopping your car simply to gander at water falling down. Each time we’d considered it though, as if guided by fate, weather moved in, or there was someone on the route we’d wished to do already. This time was different. The summit was clear. The sky was a nice hue of deep blue in the mid-May sun. It was a Monday. There was no specific
Read more

A Long Walk: Hayden Spire

Image
I tried to look past my headlamp in the very-early morning darkness, and in all honesty I couldn’t. Matt, Scott, and I had met in a parking lot only less than an hour before, three men on a mission to go to one of the most remote peaks in all of Rocky Mountain National Park. By the end of today, with a little luck and a whole lot of skill and toughness, we would summit Hayden Spire. Laying on a ridgeline extending from Sprague Peak and off of the western side of Stones Mountain lays a massive crater-like formation of rock and cliffside. Along that cliffside sits a series of huge spires above Hayden Lake, one of many year-round pockets of glaciated lake that sits quiet among the high peaks in the park. Hayden Spire is easily seen from Trail-Ridge Road, and the Forest Canyon Overlook, but never easily reached by any sort of insertion point into the park. On this particular morning, we had chosen to take the overland approach route to the spire from the Bear Lake Trailhead. This
Read more

3-Star Chossaneering: Wild Ridge via/El Diablo de Oro (5.8 III)

Image
  I could feel the heat of the late-day sun, its rays giving a light burn to the tops of both of my arms. Below me fell away the rest of Wild Ridge for about 1000 feet with New York Peak beyond. Nary a cloud in the sky, the air was warm interspersed with the light breeze from the west. I couldn’t hear any of the cars below on highway 82. Some lady in Aspen was probably buying a martini for $35 about now. I couldn’t have been happier. For as much of the Indy Pass obsessive that I was, it had never occurred to me to give Amos Whiting’s long route “El Diablo de Oro” (5.8 III) on Wild Ridge a look. Having been established in about 2014 or 2015 or so, the route certainly wasn’t grand-spanking new, but it was definitely modern compared to the Harvey Carter classics that surrounded it. I was a fan of Mr. Whiting’s work, many of his newer additions to “The Pass” were near-perfect, with great bolt placements when needed and fantastic movement for whatever grade they went at. Sarah and I had c
Read more