Colorado Classic Crags: Penitente Canyon
I like to think that the San Luis Valley is one of the forgotten areas of Colorado. I also like to think that the San Luis Valley will never garner the same attention as many of the other areas of Colorado that have experienced increased growth in the past couple years. One can only hope. Of all the places that we frequent, I’d have to say that the SLV is one of my favorites and one of the most enchanting.
Nestled at the northern end of the foothills coming off of the eastern San Juans, Penitente Canyon remains as one of the earliest sport climbing areas in Colorado, or the country for that matter. At around the same time that Smith Rock in Oregon was coming into its own, a few of the brave in our neck of the woods were pushing ethics, and the grades of climbing forward. The unrelenting work of Bob D’Antonio, among many others, has provided one of the best and most technical areas of sport climbing concentration in southern Colorado and the intermountain west. If you’re looking to see just how hard volcanic tuff sport climbing can be, look no further. Don’t be afraid to be pretty sandbagged as well.
Bolted modestly, Peni’s style focuses highly on footwork in small huecos, on even smaller edges, and very unforgiving smears (if you’re lucky). Climbing in the canyon after one season sold me on the idea of owning a pair of Scarpa Instincts, as they were the only pair of climbing shoes that fit me perfectly in order to take advantage of the highly technical footwork required to access the routes of a higher grade there. God forbid the toes on your shoes are wearing out. Other than not wanting to whip on shit bolts at Shelf, this was the place I believe that taught me how to really climb hard. As you approach the canyon, the feeling of being on a cattle ranch in the upper panhandle is more apparent than sport climbing. The only thing that blasts you back to reality are the breathtaking views of the Crestones and the Great Sand Dunes on your way south. The way that D’Antonio and the rest of the original FA parties were able to find this place is beyond me, as the access has greatly improved in the more recent years, and even then it is much behind that of other popular areas in Colorado like Shelf Road or Boulder Canyon. That’s the thing that makes Peni so special though, the fact that you feel as though you’re climbing at your local cliff, not one of the more well-known historical sport climbing areas of the country.
From an excerpt on the BLM’s (who manages the canyon) website, “If technical rock climbing is your type of adventure, then Penitente Canyon may have what you want. The canyon is known for its nearly 300 world class technical rock climbing routes. South-facing routes can be climbed year-round within the Recreation Area.” and as it continues, “Numerous Trails are also available for your enjoyment within Penitente Canyon SRMA. Other attractions include trout fishing in La Garita Creek and primitive camping.” There is simply more than enough to do at the canyon, although I feel even after more than 50 visits, I still can’t get there enough. One of the trademarks of the canyon is what it was used for before climbers were even able to grace the short walls with a bit of finger grease. The “Hermanos Penitentes,” a Catholic brotherhood of men from the Northern New Mexico and Southern Colorado region, who was very frowned upon by the Vatican, called the canyon home for a large number of years. Going so far as to be referred to by many as a cult, they lived within the relative shelter of the canyon, practicing their self-mutilation and suffering as a show of their dedication to the faith. Their mark is still evident, as the Virgin Guadalupe painting that one of their members graced the wall adjacent to “Bullet The Blue Sky” (a testpiece route in the canyon) is one of the trademark views of Peni. Be dedicated enough to sending one of the many “hard hards” within the canyon and you’ll be reasonably familiar with self-inflicted pain as well.
One may find themselves sandbagged on their first couple visits to Penitente, but I beseech you, give it time. As the Hermanos Penitentes kept their secrets, the canyon does as well, and all will be revealed in time. One route after another confidence will be gained, and soon you won’t be wondering as much what Bob D saw in these walls. For the first timer to the canyon, or for anyone wanting a good introductory warm-up, “How The West Was Won” (5.9) and “What The Hey” (5.9) are both located a modest distance within the canyon. For a couple classics farther down the grade spectrum, I cannot recommend more “Captain America” (5.10a), “Lovesnake” (5.10d), “Tanks for the Hueco” (5.10d), and “Black is Beautiful/Whipping Post” (5.11a). If you’re feeling good after sampling some of the canyon’s best 10’s and low 11’s, feel free to jump on “Forbidden Fruit” (5.12a), “Dos Hombres” (5.11c), and Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way” (5.11c). Every 12 is good in the canyon, but some are more respectable than others. Send the canyon testpiece, “Bullet The Blue Sky” (5.12c/d) and nearly everything else around will feel easier.
Surrounding Penitente, there are various other crags worth looking into if one has the time, including Witches Canyon, The Rock Garden, The Promised Land, and Sidewinder Canyon. If the San Luis Valley climbing guidebook from Bob D’Antonio is referenced, these areas are included as well. Climb hard and enjoy the area. Just respect the locals, don’t tell anyone about the SLV, and try not to join a cult while you’re down there.
CLIMBING TYPE: Sport (with a little trad-bring a single rack)
BEST GUIDEBOOK: The loveably outdated “Rock Climbing the San Luis Valley” 3rd Ed. by Bob D’Antonio. Between Mountain Project and this book, you’ll be able to identify the new and old routes.
CLOSEST TOWN: La Garita, Colorado
BEST RESTAURANT: 4th Street Diner and Bakery in Saguache, Colorado (a little north of the canyon)
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